The Fork

The History of Jerk

on Monday, 07 May 2012. Posted in The Fork

Jamaica's Seasoned Style

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Like many regionally characteristic foods, the Jamaican jerk style of cooking has a compelling and colorful history.  Jerk seasoning is traditionally either a wet or dry-rubbed marinade that contains a variety of ingredients - most importantly allspice and scotch bonnet peppers.  Other common ingredients include nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, garlic, thyme, and salt.  Although the preparation was originally used to treat pork and chicken, jerk seasonings today are applied to many different proteins.
 
The etymological origin of jerk is somewhat murky.  The work “jerk” is perhaps a derivative of the Spanish word “charqui”, which means jerky.  Other theories contend that jerk refers the effect the intense spice has upon the palate.  Still others attribute the term to the process of poking the meat during cooking, which allows the spices to penetrate more deeply.
 
The method itself is largely credited to escaped African slaves during the colonial era.  These slaves, known as Maroons, eluded the British troops for many years in Jamaica’s Blue Mountains.  The diet of these fugitives was predominantly supported by hunting the wild boar that were numerous in this area.  To prepare the meat, the Maroons combined African cooking methods with elements of the native Arawak indians meat preservation techniques.  This slow roasting process was further enhanced by the myriad of the new spices made available by pirates at the time.
 
Whatever its origins, jerk has evolved to become a distinct and celebrated style of Jamaican cooking.  Family recipes are closely guarded secrets, competitively pitted against rival offerings.  The spicy complexity of jerk cooking makes it a popular preparation the world over - although it’s tough to beat the real deal for tongue searing authenticity.

The Truth About Bitters

on Monday, 30 April 2012. Posted in The Fork

A Potent Potion

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Hidden beneath the bar, shadowed in mystery you will find a collection of small bottles.  In years past these bottles were apt to be dusty from lack of use, but recently there has been an explosion of interest in these potent potions.  I am of course referring to bitters, lauded by bartenders as the veritable salt and pepper of cocktails.

Like many herbally infused spirits, bitters were originally viewed as medicine.  Containing a vast array of exotic botanicals and herbs, bitters were largely produced at apothecary shops.  Although they were used to treat a variety complaints, bitters were most celebrated for their antifebrile qualities.  This made bitters an ideal remedy for many of the ailments experienced by troops stationed in the tropics, allowing the circulatory system to more efficiently cool itself in a humid climate.  In addition, the inclusion of quinine made bitters an effective treatment for malaria.  Even today a few drops of bitters in soda water is known to calm an upset stomach.

It was in the United States that early mixologists first recognized bitters for their ability to enhance flavors.  In fact the original definition of a “cocktail” was a beverage that contained spirit, citrus, and bitters.  Although this definition has become infinitely broader many classic concoctions depend upon the inclusion of bitters.  The venerable Manhattan would be unrecognizable without several good dashes of Angostura bitters, and a Sazerac without Peychaud’s bitters wouldn’t merit mention.  In recent years the scope and variety of bitters has exploded, allowing for a great deal of experimentation.  Modern mixologists often incorporate bitters to add depth and complexity to their creations.  And so these dusty bottles are finding their way out of the shadows, featured proudly and frequently.

A Simple Secret

on Monday, 23 April 2012. Posted in The Fork

The Bartender's Sweetener of Choice

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 Have you ever wondered why a fresh cocktail tastes better at the bar than when you’ve tried to recreate it at home?  Although many tools and practices of the bartending trade contribute to well crafted cocktails, one key ingredient is easily duplicated in the home bar.  Just what is this crucial ingredient?  Simple syrup.  It is an apt name considering how easy the sweetener is to make - sugar is dissolved into boiling water at a ratio varying between 1:1 and 2:1, depending on the desired strength of the syrup.


Although simple syrup has many applications, it is beloved by bartenders because of its solubility and the ability to manage its concentration.  Simple syrup shines when used in conjunction with fresh fruit juices, the advantage being that the balance of sweet and sour flavors can be controlled in order to create a perfect harmony between the ingredients.  This also allows for a cocktail to be tailored to an individual’s palate, something that is difficult to do when you are working with a manufactured mix.

Simple syrups are also easily infused with a wide variety of flavors.  By incorporating an ingredient while boiling the sweetener (spices work particularly well), it is possible to concentrate the flavors of this addition in the resulting syrup.  When working with simple syrup behind the bar it is easiest to disperse from a glass bottle with a vented pour spout.  As a general guideline, use approximately ¾ oz of syrup for every 1 oz of citrus juice.  Adjust this ratio based upon the sweetness of other ingredients in the cocktail, and personal preference.  And there you have it - one of bartendings most important ingredients, sweet and simple.

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