The Fork

La Louche

on Monday, 28 May 2012. Posted in The Fork

The Green Fairy Alights

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The lore of absinthe is burnished as much by the bohemian lifestyle associated with its consumption as the effect of the liquor itself.  Although the reputation of its negative effects were likely greatly exaggerated (or perhaps due to poorly distilled products), the romance of absinthe continued to intrigue long after it was banned at the turn of the last century.

Nearly a century later, absinthe has reappeared on the bar shelf.  After so many intervening years it is no wonder that the rituals of imbibing the celebrated “green fairy” should take on so much importance.  Although there are several methods for enjoying absinthe the most authentic is the Parisian method known as La Louche.

The Louche method requires ice water, sugar cubes, and specially designed slotted absinthe spoons.  The sugar cube is placed on the spoon which is balanced on the rim of the glass containing the neat spirit.  The chilled water is then slowly allowed to drip onto the sugar cube, through the spoon, and into the liquor beneath.  This process changes the absinthe in several important ways.  First of all it dilutes the spirit, which is produced at a very high percentage of alcohol.  The water also oxidizes the absinthe, thereby releasing its essential oils and allowing the drinker to appreciate aromatic character of the liquor (and perhaps heightening the effect of the infamous wormwood artemesia).  Finally, the addition of sugar mellows the intensely herbal character of neat absinthe, rendering it more palatable.

The aesthetic transformation that occurs during the Louche method is an equally celebrated component of the ritual.  As the water is slowly added to the absinthe, the oxidation process transforms the liquid from a clear peridot color to an cloudy opalescent green.  Many romantics associate this literal transformation with the more subjective transformation of a drinker’s state of mind as the green fairy takes effect.  Although these flights of fancy are somewhat muted by the significantly lower amounts of wormwood present in modern absinthe, the drama of the Louche preparation proves as compelling today as in years past.

The Negroni Today

on Monday, 21 May 2012. Posted in The Fork

An Aperitif of Note

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As modern palates evolve, many find themselves turning from the readily accessible sweetness of fruit based cocktails to the more complex flavors of spirit driven classics.  One classic that is enjoying a resurgence in interest is the Negroni.  The drink is thought to have been invented in 1919 in Florence, Italy by the Count Camillo Negroni, when he instructed his bartender to replace the soda in his Americano with gin - a formidable substitution to say the least.

The potent mixture is a wonderful aperitif, an opener that is both refreshing and bracing.  The Negroni is a disarmingly simple cocktail that is often incorrectly prepared - technique and proportion are of vital importance.  A true Negroni should contain precisely equal amounts of each of its three components - gin, sweet vermouth, and Campari.  Because of the intensity of the flavors at play in these spirits, deviating from these exacting measurements can throw the cocktail’s elegant balance.

Ideally a Negroni should be stirred over ice, rather than shaken.  This prevents over dilution of the spirits and creates a silky smooth texture.  Although the cocktail was originally served over ice, today it is equally common to find the drink strained and served up - let personal preference dictate.  Either way the traditional garnish is an orange twist.

Draught vs Bottle

on Monday, 14 May 2012. Posted in The Fork

Which Brew's for You?

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As a bartender I have always been fascinated by certain customers’ fierce preference for either draught beer or bottled beer.  Upon inquiry I have encountered varied and sometimes contradictory reasonings for this partiality.  And so, my interest piqued, I decided to look into the matter myself.
 
One of the first quantifiable differences between bottled beer and draught beer is in their preparation for packaging.  Bottled beer is pasteurized, or rapidly heated, before bottling to prevent spoilage.  This is thought to have a slight dampening effect on the fullness of the brews flavor.  Draught beer, on the other hand, does not require pasteurization before being kegged.  As a result more of the original flavor of the brewing process is retained in the final product.
 
Another area of distinction is in the mouthfeel of draught and bottled beers.  As a draught beer is released from the tap and poured into a glass the liquid experiences agitation.  This process aerates the beer, creating a foamy aromatic head.  Bottled beer, if drunk straight from the bottle, does not have an opportunity to introduce additional air and thus will not develop the aromatic or textural complexity of a draught poured beer.  However, if a bottled beer is poured into a glass, it will undergo many of the same transformations as a draught beer.

One area in which draught beer occasionally disappoints is related to the maintenance of the tap lines.  If the equipment is not properly cared for bacteria and mold can develop in the lines or pipes and produce unpleasant flavors in the beer.  The flavor of bottled beer can also be negatively affected based upon its exposure to sunlight.  Clear and green glass bottles in particularly allow too much sun to penetrate the beer which can cause the beer to oxidize more quickly.

Whatever people’s preference might be there are qualities to enjoy in both bottled and draught beers - the most important thing is that they are stored and poured properly.


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